Monthly Archives: January 2019

Feeling lost in Penang


Children admiring a Hokkien glove puppet theatre performing ‘Journey to the West’ on a portable wooden stage at the Little Penang Street Market.

Its decline has been progressive, but Penang’s Hokkien heritage is at its closest to death’s door as 2019 takes off.

LAST week, I returned to my hometown, Penang, to celebrate Chinese New Year. The family reunion meal with my father (who turns 94 this year) and (87-year-old) mother is an annual event I always look forward to.

It’s not possible to have my brothers (now in their mid-60s to 70 years old), their wives, children and grandchildren with us at the family event every time, but we get as many of them as we can. I have made it a point to host these pre-CNY meals because for the last few years, I have avoided being in Penang during the first two days of the actual celebrations.

That’s when Penang island’s roads get choked up and traffic comes to a complete standstill, the city desperately dealing with the homecoming of Penangites and tourists, especially during the second day of CNY.

The temperature on the island during the CNY season always seems to spike and at times, the scorching heat is almost unbearable. And that’s another reason why I withdraw from the otherwise lovely island during this festive period. As much as I yearn for my Penang hawker fare, I don’t want to jostle for a plate of char koay teow with tourists. But on this recent trip home, it hit me that I have become a stranger in my proud Hokkien-speaking island. The loss of the distinct northern-accented Hokkien has been apparent in the last few years but now it looks like its death may come sooner than feared.

It’s worse for a “banana” like me – a term to denote a person of Chinese origin who can’t speak or write Chinese, and instead, identifies more with Western culture. The term is derived from the fruit, which is “yellow on the outside, white on the inside”.

Those like me are regarded a disgrace to the Chinese-speaking community because I can’t read or write Chinese or speak Mandarin.

Their horror turns to disgust when I confess that I can’t even write my name in Chinese.

My decade of education was at St Xavier’s Institution, a Catholic establishment, and despite the religious background of the premier school, it had a liberal and open- minded culture that moulded most of its students, and this, us former students are enormously grateful for and proud of.

The multi-ethnic mix of the school’s population also means we had real friends from all races, developed and tested over a decade. So we always felt sorry for those who studied in Chinese, Tamil or Islamic-based schools then, because we felt their set up was mono-ethnic. And no matter how much the products of these schools claim they had friends from other races, we know they didn’t have the deep ties or bonds that those of us in English-medium schools developed.

Fast forward to 2019! Just like The Last Of The Mohicans – the James Fenimore Cooper historical novel realised in the 1992 movie about the last members of the dying Native American tribe, the Mohicans – it dawned on me last week that I could well be among the Last Of The Bananas in Malaysia.

At the Air Itam wet market, I asked for the price of the thee kuih, or kuih bakul, in Hokkein and the stall keeper, in turn, replied: “Oh, nee yau (you want) nian gao.”

A few steps away, another trader was loudly hawking ang pow packets, which, in previous times, would be referred to as “ang pow long” (red packets), but this time, I was hearing “hong bao feng”.

By the time I sat down at a coffee shop, the waiter was already taking down my order, again, in Mandarin, and quoting prices in that language, too. It was no longer “kopi” but “ka fei” now.

If there’s one clear feature that separates Penangites from the rest of the ethnic Chinese in Malaysia, it has always been the melodious Hokkien, with its rich sprinkling of Malay words that reveals its nonya-baba linguistic roots.

Penangites – at least from the older generation – are fiercely proud of their Hokkien, as it completely differs from the one spoken in Singapore, Taiwan or Xiamen in China, and even that in Melaka or Johor. Call us smug, snooty or parochial but we sometimes dismiss the Hokkien spoken elsewhere as somewhat crass and unrefined.

Only the Hokkien spoken by the Chinese in Medan closely mirrors Penang Hokkien, presumably because of the proximity between the island and the Indonesian city.

Whether rightly or wrongly, or plainly out of ignorance, Penangites feel the sing-song delivery is easier on the ears.

Words such as balai (police station), balu (just now), bangku (stool), batu (stone), cilaka/celaka (damn it), campur (to mix), jamban (toilet), gatai/gatal (itchy) gili/geli (creepy), sabun (soap) and kesian (pity), are an integral part of the Penang Hokkien dialect.

If the person is not from Penang, then he or she is likely from Kedah, Perlis or Taiping in Perak, to be able to converse in the northern-accented Hokkien. Which brings me to my point: As the daily use of the dialect is rapidly being replaced by Mandarin, I am feeling the impact the most. It is worse for the “bananas” who are feeling lost and out of place – in their home town.

It doesn’t help that many of the present Penang state and federal leaders aren’t from Penang, having been born and raised in either Melaka, Johor or Selangor.

The Penang Monthly bulletin, in its May 2017 issue, dramatically headlined the situation: “Penang Hokkien on life support”.

In an interview with the publication, Penang Hokkien Language Association secretary Ooi Kee How lamented that “our creativity, our cultural identity, will decline. A lot of innovations will disappear, because different languages shape the way we think differently.”

But the wide use of Mandarin and the decline of the dialects is not just endemic to Penang. Cantonese is spoken less in the Klang Valley, too, and is suffering the same sad fate as northern Hokkien. The random stranger who calls up, irritatingly “inviting” us to take up a loan having been “specially selected”, speaks to me in Mandarin because it’s assumed I can speak the language since I have a Chinese name. Likewise, the sales staff who stops us at the shopping mall also speaks to me in Mandarin, likely led by the same deduction.

So, as a “banana” who thinks and dreams in English, I am starting to suffer from anxiety. I am embarrassed by my inability to communicate in an important language – with huge economic value – and worse, the national language of my ancestral country.

At the rate, the Chinese language is being used, even by non-Chinese, I fear that I will be regarded illiterate in future. “Bananas” in the past ridiculed and mocked the Chinese-educated for not being able to speak English sufficiently, or roll their tongues well enough to produce the “r” sound, but now, it looks like the tables have turned on the “bananas”, instead.

A whole generation of Malaysian Chinese has been educated in Chinese schools, at least at primary level. It has been widely reported, from various surveys, that up to 90% of Chinese parents send their children to Chinese primary schools, and the balance to national medium schools.

As I have written here before, this is unlike the experience of the older generation of Penangites like me, now in their 50s, who attended schools using English as a medium of instruction. In the absence of Mandarin, we spoke mainly Hokkien and English, but people in their 30s and 40s are more comfortable conversing in Mandarin, and certainly not English.

Then there is the huge impact of Chinese TV shows, especially on Astro. They are entirely in Mandarin – with shows from mainland China and Taiwan – and Hokkien, which is spoken in a manner closer to that used in Melaka, Johor and Singapore.

It’s no surprise that the sales staff at malls also expect the Chinese community to speak Mandarin, and understandably, they will begin the conversation in Mandarin – because you are expected to know the language.

There is also the impact of China as the new economic powerhouse of Asia, if not the world. Mandarin has become the dominant language with economic value, and certainly prestige. That’s how it is now, but this may well come at the expense of a rich heritage.

The harsh reality is that the unique “sing-song” style of Penang Hokkien might no longer be heard decades from now if this frightening trend continues. Even worse, what’s certain is that the “bananas” will be history very soon.

Well, what can I say, except to wish you “xin nian kwai le” (happy new year) and “gong xi fa cai” (may you attain greater wealth) this festive season!

Kicking up a fuss over a dance

I am finding it hard to comprehend the brouhaha over the episode where Attorney General Tommy Thomas, Chief Justice Tan Sri Richard Malanjum and Minister in the Prime Minister’s Department Datuk Liew Vui Keong, who is in charge of law, danced at a recent law fraternity dinner.

What’s the fuss here? So there were several officers from the legal fraternity and their fellow lawyers doing the fun and infectious twist at their own private party.

As one lawyer posted cheekily over social media – if there is any complaint, it should be their bad dance moves.

If I may add, there doesn’t seem to be any political or legal twists to their dancing. They looked like they were having a good time. Period.

The controversy erupted simply because of the political divide and conflicting values.

We have the pro-Umno and Islamist lawyers waving the conservative religious flags, admonishing such display of emotion – in this case, dancing – which in their narrow minds is something that must be forbidden. But let’s not forget where we are. This is not Afghanistan or Iran.

Last week, a video clip of the three dancing at the gala dinner, hosted by the Sabah Law Society in conjunction with the Opening of Legal Year 2019 in Kota Kinabalu went viral.

The clip also showed activist lawyers Siti Kasim and Datuk Ambiga Sreenevasan dancing to the classic Chubby Checker 1960s hit Let’s Twist Again.

Umno vice-president Datuk Seri Ismail Sabri said it was not wrong to dance but having all of them dance on the same stage could bring about a negative perception.

He noted that the Judiciary was supposed to be “exclusive” and its members should not be seen associating or having an external relationship with others.

Umno Youth chief Datuk Asyraf Wajdi Dusuki described the incident as “an embarrassment to the judicial and legal institutions of this country”.

He said those who are part of the country’s judicial and legal institutions, particularly judges, should be sensitive in their social interactions.

Another prominent lawyer, my non-Malay friend, expressed his displeasure to me, saying the British Bar would certainly not have approved of such dancing, saying they would probably endorsed only “ballroom dancing”.

With all due respect, I wonder how many of the Bar members could take part in ballroom dancing.

And seriously, why should our poor lawyers put up with pretentious, elitist, colonial inherited stiff-upper-lip aloofness or neo-Taliban influences at Malaysian Bar dinners, where any form of music and dancing are banned?

Critics who cried foul over the dance episode claimed that all the fraternising has tarnished the image of the Judiciary, with some politicians describing it as unethical, calling for the resignation of the judges to maintain the good name of the Judiciary.

Of course, many of these holier-than-thou, hypocritical lawyers and politicians did not ask their party leaders about ethics when they were looting off millions of ringgit from the people.

One or two argued that “this could be seen as having an influence on the judgments they make in court”.

If there is one thing I agree with Ismail is his remark that “judges are not angels, they are humans who can sometimes be influenced by friendships and other relationships”.

And that comes to the point: Some of the actions of top court officials in the past have raised suspicion especially in their political biasness and at times, even religious beliefs, which have raised questions over their decisions.

They were so powerful at one time that the public is expected to just accept their decisions, and many of us are afraid to openly criticise the judgments for fear of committing contempt of court.

There has even been complaints of corruption, or gratification, involving court officials such as judges, judicial officers and deputy public prosecutors, made to the MACC. In 2009, there were 39 complaints but the numbers dwindled subsequently.

There have been ministers of law and AGs, who were accused of taking political orders (rightly or wrongly) at the expense of the country’s interests – and none of us remember any episode with them dancing!

Perhaps they danced away to the tune of their political bosses, in private, which has resulted in greater political twists.

Looking at the Judges’ Code of Ethics 2009, Section 8 (1), a judge shall ensure that his extra-judicial activities do not cast reasonable doubt on his capacity to act impartially as a judge; or interfere with the proper performance of his judicial duties.

(2) A judge shall avoid close association with individual members of the legal profession, particularly those who practise in the judge’s court, where such association might give rise to a reasonable suspicion or appearance of favouritism.

(3) A judge shall refrain from any conduct as a member of any group, association or any organisation or participate in any public discussion, which, in the mind of a reasonable person, may undermine confidence in the judge’s impartiality with respect to any issue pending before the court.

Without doubt, our judges, especially the Chief Justice, need to conduct themselves with proper decorum, but none of the above protocols fit into what transpired at last week’s Bar dinner in Sabah.

We should be more worried if our judges regularly spend time with lawyers or top businessmen at golf courses or in the privacy of cigar smoke-filled rooms.

In 2010, the Detroit Legal News reported that judges took part in a sold-out “Dancing With The Judges” fundraiser, organised by the Macomb County Bar Foundation, the charitable affiliate of the Macomb County Bar Association, and there are many of such dancing events.

Legendary US Supreme Court judge Ruth Bader Ginsburg has even invited TV host Stephen Colbert for a workout at the gym for a show.

Let’s not get too excited with our judicial officials dancing to the tune of Chubby Checker’s evergreen hit song. We should only be worried if they get tempted to dance to the tunes and caprices of ruling politicians.

Let the cash registers ring

IT’S less than three weeks to the Chinese New Year, but the consensus feels there is less festive excitement in the air, and that, for most of our country folk, simply means money is tight.

Ordinary Malaysians feel they don’t have enough to spend, yet most are pleased that they still have jobs. Their bosses are unlikely to be generous with increments, and in many cases, there are no bonuses even. Employers are struggling to achieve their targets as they grapple with last year’s poor financial results, and the seemingly bleak start to the first month of 2019.

The ringgit remains weak, causing operating costs to shoot up for many companies which need to settle their debts for materials purchased in US dollars. Previously, in a limp economy, the country could depend on crude oil and palm oil’s yield, but both are now down, and this has put Malaysia in a tight spot. Against this backdrop, we have a new government struggling to keep its operations intact as it tries to reconcile with the insanely huge amount of money stolen.

Four months from now, the Pakatan Harapan government will turn a year old. The perception, rightly or wrongly, is that the Prime Minister is single-handedly managing the country, and that the learning curve has been rather steep for many ministers, resulting in slow progress.

A few ministers, in the eyes of the people, aren’t performing as expected or seem slotted in the “wrong” ministerial portfolios. A couple, or perhaps more, are still fearful of meeting the media, the assumption made that they lack confidence in responding to questions, especially with portfolios technical in nature. It doesn’t help that some aloof ministers refuse to seek the support of their long-serving secretary-generals, foolishly thinking they know better.

And of course, certain ministers are still in opposition mode, evidenced by their body language and sarcastic remarks – which smack of arrogance – at press conferences and meetings. They prefer to discredit their political opponents, and even members of the media, forgetting that the general election is long over. These are the unfortunate ones who haven’t moved on and have failed to rally the civil servants and media to move forward. Everything must be seen through a political prism, and they live in the make-belief world of political agendas and shadows.

Patience is running thin, especially with the economy not chugging along well enough. After all, no good news on the economy seems to be in sight, and it doesn’t help that some of us are defensive about it. Ministers can talk about inherited problems for a while, but come May, few of us will still pay attention to the repeated rhetoric.

The World Bank recently forecasted Malaysia’s RM1.41 trillion economy to grow at 4.7% this year, and to slow down to 4.6% next year. In its January 2019 Global Economic Prospects report titled “Darkening Skies”, the World Bank reported that Malaysia’s lower public investment is weighing on growth, reflecting the completion of several infrastructure projects and a more prudent approach with new ones.

In contrast to the regional trend, import growth in Malaysia has been weak, mirroring flagging demand for capital goods imports combined with lower imports of intermediate goods, the bank said.

The report also highlighted Malaysia’s pockets of vulnerabilities, including high levels of public and private debt, external debt, and foreign participation in local-currency sovereign bond markets. Adding insult to injury, the cost of rising import tariffs may be magnified by Malaysia’s involvement in complex global value chains.

Externally, the World Bank report noted global economic growth is projected to soften from a downwardly revised 3% in 2018 to 2.9% in 2019, amid rising downside risks to the outlook. Growth among advanced economies is expected to drop to 2% this year.

Slowing external demand, rising borrowing costs, and persistent policy uncertainties are likely to weigh in on the outlook for emerging market and developing economies, said the report. And many of us are praying that 76-year-old Jim Rogers, the influential fund manager and commentator, is completely wrong with his prophecy of a crash that will be “the biggest in my lifetime.”

Unfortunately, in Malaysia, there is a lack of focus. We still spend hours upon hours of unproductive time, especially on social media, speculating on divisive political gossip and their relevant personalities. Our country’s greatest challenge this year is having unwavering focus on the economy, because we need to deal with economic reforms and propel our financial growth.

There is an urgent need to realign our energy and set a clear direction and commit to economic openness. Right now, not many of us can tell which economic sectors should be key revenue streams, or how the government and private sectors can work together to identify these essential areas. We need a shake-up pronto.

The Council of Eminent Persons has carried out preliminary work, and the time has come for Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad to set up a council involving all the stakeholders, accelerate the economy, brave the incoming storms and take us on a leap to the next step. It doesn’t matter if it’s not called the National Economic Advisory Council: what we need is an institution that can put national interest above the narrow-vested interests of politicians, and, help make recommendations to our leaders.

The government must be seen putting things in order, and it needs all the help it can get from Malaysians. It can’t only draw from the experiences of Dr Mahathir and Tun Daim Zainuddin, while novice ministers await divine intervention.

Certain ministries, for example, are revenue earners, so they need to engage more with the private sector and media to galvanise their plans. A case in point, Visit Malaysia Year is next year, but is the world aware of our great welcome, if there even is one? Forget the foreigners, do we even know about this big event, especially with it likely involving all Malaysians as ambassadors?

From the Home Ministry instructing immigration officers to stop frowning and start smiling, to the local authorities keeping the cities sparkling clean, all of us must be a part of it. These are low hanging fruits, and, even the Health Ministry can be involved in attracting medical tourists. But are we still pegged back by archaic laws that forbid advertisement by doctors, while a neighbour like Thailand has long progressed beyond us?

There is a real problem – unclear leadership, fear and indecision – but Malaysians must band together to ride through these choppy waters. The reality is that the economy has always been the fulcrum of politics and its focus is a key criterion on how the government runs the country. We need to present optimism and positivity in our narratives, because we have plenty of good stories to tell the world about why they must come to Malaysia. Please visit us and see for yourselves what a fabulous country we are.

Of course, this doesn’t mean ignoring 1MDB’s problems because they are colossal and can’t be settled in mere months. Fugitive financier Jho Low is still at large, but our government is trying to regain some of the losses he incurred. In the end, it’s the pockets of the voters that matter. American political strategist James Carville, during the 1992 presidential campaign for Bill Clinton, aptly coined the now infamous phrase – “It’s the economy, stupid.”

Close encounters of the croc kind in Darwin, Australia

The plan began quite simply – I would pay AUD45 (RM132) and join other tourists at the Adelaide River in Darwin, Australia.

Located about 65km east of Darwin, we just need to hop on a cruise boat and look out for crocodiles.

There are more than 200,000 saltwater crocodiles roaming the Northern Territories waterways, and the Adelaide River is one of them.

It was easy to be convinced that the river had plenty of these mean-looking reptiles as I could clearly see a few breaching the river’s surface while I stood waiting by the pier.

Having watched Paul Hogan and the Crocodile Dundee movies from the late 1980s – which were, incidentally, filmed in Darwin – I had read enough to prepare myself for this trip.

The highlight of the cruise was meant to be a show: the boat guide would snag pieces of meat and dangle them from lines held out of the boat to get the crocodiles to jump out of the water, so tourists can capture their perfect pictures.

But I was fairly convinced that these “seasoned” crocodiles were unlikely to be hungry. They probably indulge in these stunts every few hours, or less, since they are familiar with the routine of these tourist boats.

When I asked the guide if there would be any possibility of me catching the famous white croc nicknamed Pearl, she laughed at me.

“I am sorry, mate! You would have to be really very lucky to spot her. I am afraid that’s very unlikely,” she told me, but being the ultimate optimist, I was pretty sure fate had something special in store for me. Nature’s special crocodile had surfaced just four months earlier, and as expected, Pearl made national news.


There are over 200,000 saltwater crocs roaming Australia’s northern territory waterways.

There are over 200,000 saltwater crocs roaming Australia’s northern territory waterways.

It was thought that the albino creature had either died or disappeared having not made an appearance for months. A news report quoted wildlife guide Mike Kieghley as saying that he was “sure that it had met a grisly end”.

According to NT News, Pearl was first spotted in the Adelaide River in November 2017 and some have speculated that it may be related to the infamous crocodile Michael Jackson, a white-headed reptile that also called the Adelaide River home, before he was killed for taking the life of fisherman Lanh Van Tran in 2014.

Both Michael Jackson and Pearl have the leucistic gene, which causes the loss of pigmentation. The colouring deprives them of camouflage, making these animals far more susceptible to attacks in the wild, so some have called for greater protection for Pearl, a report said.

In fact, Pearl has gained international repute with the Daily Mail reporting in September 2017, that “an incredibly rare white crocodile has been spotted in a remote part of Northern Territory” which was “affectionately named Pearl after her lightly coloured scales, the white crocodile has been spotted for the first time in the Adelaide River”.

“Locals have been speculating that Pearl may even be the only one of her kind in Australia,” it reported, adding that it was about 10 years old. Others say it could be 30 to 40 years old.


Wong Chun Wai gets close with a replica of one of the crocodiles captured in Adelaide River.

The BBC was even more dramatic, quoting a witness, a local conservation enthusiast, as estimating the crocodile to be about 3m (10ft) long.

“Everyone is so ecstatic, I spent most of the day in tears watching her,” it quoted the president of an unofficial local conservation group. Even Fox News took a break from reporting about their idol Donald Trump to give Pearl air time.

Last January, it was news in Australia when passengers on a river cruise captured on video a rare white crocodile which swam up to the craft for a snack.

Shai Ager, an ecologist and passenger on the boat said that “tour guides told them” the crocodile’s name is Pearl and she was first spotted in November.

“We saw the white albino crocodile and, as far as I’m aware, it was only seen last November, so a lot of people weren’t sure if it was still alive or not,” Ager told the Australian Broadcasting Corp.

Back to my little adventure, as the boat moved slowly up the river, the guide by now seemed visibly irritated at my knowledge of the “Great White” in the Adelaide River.

I was raising the hopes of the other passengers with tales of this white crocodile, and that must have put the guide in a spot. By then, it was clear that none of these tourists had an inkling to what I was talking about.

Every sighting of the white crocodile has chomped up news space, but what made this Asian middle-aged man so sure he would see one?

But lo and behold, an hour later, even to my astonishment, the white crocodile appeared before our very eyes!


White croc Pearl makes a rare appearance in Adelaide River, Darwin.

None of us, including the guide, could believe our luck, especially me, since I had only recently read up on this beautiful rare animal, which has made news headlines around the world, fascinating even experts at the Smithsonian Institution.

There were more interesting details. According to the Northern Territory Conservation and Protection Society, it reported the crocodile’s discovery and movement as “hanging out in the territory of a large male, which is a good indication it’s a girl. But since crocodiles’ sex organs are difficult to observe, experts would have to conduct an internal exam to be sure”.

Naturally, since Pearl is wild, and no one has ever studied this animal, gender remains a mystery.

The result is that the confused media sometimes refers to Pearl as her, and sometimes him. Pearl has surely kept us guessing.

But there was still one more crocodile to see before I concluded my trip to Darwin. I dutifully visited Burt, the crocodile that became world famous after appearing in Crocodile Dundee.

He is now being kept at the Crocosaurus Cove in Mitchell Street, having been captured in 1981 in Reynolds River after incessantly attacking cattle there. The creature is one mean giant at 5.1m, and he’s over 80 years old.

This monstrous salt water crocodile weighs in at over 700kg, according to a report, and is popularly described as a “confirmed bachelor with one hell of a grumpy attitude”, the park adding that it has failed to find him a mate.

Crocosaurus Cove lists Burt as “our oldest and famous resident” since it has “starred alongside Paul Hogan and Linda Kozlowski in the original Crocodile Dundee movie as well as providing the basis for the digital crocodile in the film Rogue”.


Burt, the reptile in the Crocodile Dundee movie.

The first Crocodile Dundee movie was made in 1986, followed by two sequels: Crocodile Dundee II (1988) and Crocodile Dundee in Los Angeles (2001).

In 2017, Burt was back in the news again, as a seemingly “psychic” crocodile, predicting the winners of World Cup matches.

It has been an incredible journey to Australia. I sat in the coolness of the air-conditioned crocodile park, away from the blazing sun outside, and just watched in awe at Earth’s largest living crocodilian – and, some say, the animal most likely to eat a human – the saltwater or estuarine crocodile.

They are not just any crocodiles but the species where average-size males can reach 17ft (5.1m) and weigh 1,000lbs (450kg), but specimens 23ft (7m) long and weighing 2,200lbs (997kg) are not uncommon.

These saltwater crocs, or “salties”, as Australians affectionately call them, are excellent swimmers and have often been spotted far out at sea.

I set out to meet Burt – the world’s most famous crocodile actor – and ended up with the fantastic bonus of spotting Pearl, one of the most famous white reptiles.

Call of the king

istana negara

OVER the coming days, the Keeper of the Rulers’ Seal, Tan Sri Syed Danial Syed Ahmad, will fulfil the duty of sending out letters to the nine Rulers, informing them of the election of the new Yang di-Pertuan Agong.

He is the only official in Malaysia who has custody and can use the Rulers’ Seal of Malaysia on behalf of the Conference of Rulers.

He is the secretary to the Rulers and oversees the scripted meetings three times a year, or at the request of the King.

His most publicly-visible role is to announce the start of the fasting period for the month of Ramadan and the dates for Hari Raya.

Syed Danial, a quiet and unassuming man, keeps a low profile. He carries out his duties professionally and competently. Ironically, he comes from Penang, a state without a Malay Ruler, and speaks Hokkien.

As Keeper of the Royal Seal – the symbol of traditional authority of the royal institution in Malaysia – he is tasked with carrying out the country’s unique election among the Rulers, and this time around, following a situation which arose from an exclusive set of circumstances recently.

It is unprecedented as no king in the country’s history has ever relinquished his responsibilities midway into his service. Sultan Muhammad V became the first Malaysian king to abdicate after just two years on the throne, his five-year tenure uncompleted.

Against this backdrop of upheaval, speculation was rife that the Sultan of Pahang, Sultan Ahmad Shah, 88, who is in declining health, may also step down.

Then on Friday, the Pahang Royal Council met to discuss the possibility of the Regent of Pahang, Tengku Abdullah Sultan Ahmad Shah, ascending as Sultan of Pahang. The meeting at a hotel in Kuala Lumpur lasted four hours.

Yesterday, it was announced that the Regent of Pahang, Tengku Abdullah Sultan Ahmad Shah, will be the sixth Sultan of Pahang on Jan 15.

This was made public by Tengku Muda Pahang Tengku Abdul Rahman Al-Haj ibni Sultan Haji Ahmad Shah at Istana Abu Bakar in Pekan on Saturday.

The nation will see Tengku Abdullah’s installation as the sixth modern Sultan of Pahang, effectively paving the way for his candidacy as the 16th Yang di-Pertuan Agong.

Based on a rotation system, the next in line – after Kelantan – is Pahang’s Sultan Ahmad Shah, followed by Sultan Ibrahim Sultan Iskandar of Johor and then Sultan Nazrin Shah of Perak. But none of these Rulers will automatically assume the throne since their brother Rulers still need to vote.

The election is carried out by a secret ballot. The ballot papers are not numbered, but are marked with the same pen and ink, and are inserted into a ballot box. Only the Rulers participate in the election.

A Ruler may appoint another Ruler as his proxy to vote on his behalf if he is unable to attend the election meeting – and on the upcoming Jan 24 meeting, it is believed the Sultan of Kelantan is likely to give the proxy vote to a Ruler.

Although there are only nine Rulers, there is a great deal of secrecy involved in the polling procedure – the Keeper of the Rulers’ Seal distributes the ballot with only one candidate.

It is very simple – each Ruler is requested to indicate a candidate’s suitability for election as Yang di-Pertuan Agong.

The Sultan of Kedah, being the most junior Ruler, is appointed to count the ballot papers together with the Keeper of the Rulers’ Seal.

Sultan Sallehuddin Ibni Almarhum Sultan Badlishah was installed as the 29th Sultan of Kedah in October. He will not be listed as nominee for the office of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong.

In fact, the Conference of Rulers made a video of the election process, which now sits in RTM’s archives.

The nominee must have obtained at least five votes before the Ruler presiding over the Election Meeting offers him the office of Yang di-Pertuan Agong.

If the successful nominee declines the offer, or the nominated Ruler fails to secure the required votes, the voting process is repeated with the nomination of the Ruler next in line.

The process is completed only after a Ruler has accepted the offer of the office of Yang di-Pertuan Agong and the Conference declares the Ruler as the Yang di-Pertuan Agong for the next five years.

The ballot papers are destroyed in the presence of the Rulers as soon as the result of the election is announced – in this case, the papers are burnt.

The decision of the Rulers is first made known to the Prime Minister, and Speakers of the Dewan Rakyat and Dewan Negara respectively, before it is announced to the public.

While there is an election, the nine Rulers do not campaign, unlike politicians. In fact, the general sentiment of the Rulers is that they prefer the traditional method of rotation. But in the past, some elder Rulers have corresponded between themselves to evaluate a Ruler’s interest in the role, as a matter of courtesy and to avoid potential embarrassment.

It needs to be pointed out that many of the Rulers are also related in some way because of inter-marriages within the royal households.

It must be recognised that our Malay monarchy dates to the 15th century, and is steeped in tradition and history, with great emphasis on the respect for adat, or local customs and traditions as observed by the Malays. Protocol is carried out with great care, and Rulers are expected to respect these traditions.

But while the election of the King is entirely the prerogative of the nine Rulers – excluding the Prime Minister, Mentri Besar and for sure, the public – the royal institution has now found itself grappling with the emergence of social media.

They have found themselves being scrutinised, and even subjected to criticism. Unflattering pictures have appeared, but there’s nothing much they can do about it.

While there are rules to punish Malaysians for crossing the line, the reality is that social media is now a global platform, and policing comments posted on the institution is a Herculean task.

In some ways, the institution has taken a beating with the public having expressed their displeasure over the seemingly unlimited conferment of titles such as Datuk and Datuk Seri, which has apparently made Malaysia the country with the most titled people.

Then, there are the regular outbursts on elected representatives and certain royalty enjoying lavish lifestyles at the expense of taxpayers.

But the role of our Rulers is certainly relevant and important, especially since our political institutions are weak, what with the constant bickering and the rise of extreme racial politics, where our politicians have not only failed to put a stop to these disturbing trends, but worse, have joined in this ugly culture.

Then, there is the increasing call for Malaysia to become an Islamic state and again, our politicians, worried about losing most Malay votes, cannot be counted on to make a stand.

The minority in Malaysia, ironically, can only look to the Malay Rulers to speak up and protect the existing system and structure.

At least four Rulers – the Sultan of Selangor, the Sultan of Johor, the Sultan of Perak and the Negri Sembilan Yang di-Pertuan Besar – have consistently spoken up on the importance of moderation and the need to respect our rights as Malaysians.

The election of the new King is not just being followed by Malaysians, but the world as well, and the nine Rulers will have a heavy task ahead in choosing a new King.

Rules for the Rulers

Of national interest: The Conference of Rulers – comprising the nine rulers, and governors or Yang di-Pertua Negeri of the other four states – meets three times a year to deliberate on matters of national policy.

THIS may have escaped many of us, but our Rulers – be they the King or Sultans of the nine Malay states – are bound by certain rules and regulations, including taking leave, as ordinary Malaysians do.

For example, if any of them were to go on leave of absence for more than 30 days, the Sultan would have to appoint his Regent to handle his duties.

Before doing so, the Ruler must inform the Council of Rulers, which will consequently make an official announcement of his plans.

The Mentri Besar will be informed of the appointment of the Regent (to take over the Sultan’s duties), as the MB would need to meet him before the weekly state executive council meetings.

So, the Ruler can’t just pack his bags and leave for more than 30 days without revealing his plans.

At the federal level, the King, too, must appoint another Ruler to exercise the duties of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong, if he wishes to go on leave for a stipulated period.

So, during the absence of Yang di-Pertuan Agong Sultan Muhammad V for two months recently, the Sultan of Perak, Sultan Nazrin Muizzuddin Shah, took over the duties of His Majesty. Sultan Nazrin is the Deputy Yang di-Pertuan Agong. And for two months, Prime Minister Tun Dr Mahathir Mohamad was required to seek an audience with Sultan Nazrin to brief him on the Cabinet papers.

As part of his duties, the King, or Acting King, is required to read up the voluminous Cabinet papers every week.

Last week, in a rare ceremony – the significance of which was lost on many Malaysians – Sultan Nazrin left Istana Negara, two months after exercising the duties of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong.

Sultan Nazrin, and Raja Permaisuri Perak, Tuanku Zara Salim, attended a departure ceremony before leaving the palace grounds about 5pm on Dec 31.

The ceremony, held at Dewan Seri Maharaja, began with Dr Mahathir reading out the letter of thanks before Sultan Nazrin, followed by the presentation of souvenirs by the prime minister and his wife, Dr Siti Hasmah Mohamad Ali, to the royal couple.

About 500 officials and staff of Istana Negara waved the royal couple off as they left the palace grounds for Istana Hinggap Perak.

Not many of us will remember or care about the event, but it was historic.

Like all ordinary Malaysians, our Rulers are required to perform certain roles, beyond their ceremonial functions.

While we have KPI (key performance indicators) and appraisals (conducted by our superiors), in the case of the King, he will be judged by his fellow Rulers.

The Conference of Rulers – comprising the nine rulers, and governors or Yang di-Pertua Negeri of the other four states – meets three times a year to deliberate on matters of national policy.

It is truly a unique institution, which is officially established by Article 38 of the Federal Constitution, and is the only such institution in the world, according to the Malaysian National Library.

Malaysia is also the only country where the Rulers elect the King and his deputy every five years or when the positions fall vacant (either through death, resignation, or removal from office).

In between, the Rulers can also meet among themselves for special purposes to discuss matters of paramount importance – without the presence of the mentris besar, Chief Ministers and governors – as they did last week.

What is of public interest is Article 38 (6), that “the members of the Conference of Rulers may act in their discretion in any proceedings relating to the following functions, that is to say –

  1. the election or removal from office of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong or the election of the Timbalan Yang di-Pertuan Agong;
  2. the advising on any appointment;
  3. The Yang di-Pertuan Agong shall be elected by the Conference of Rulers for a term of five years but may at any time resign from his office by writing in his hand addressed to the Conference of Rulers or be removed from office by the Conference of Rulers, and shall no longer hold office on ceasing to be a Ruler;
  4. The provisions of Part I and III of the Third Schedule shall apply to the election and removal of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong.

In our history, Kings have died while in office, including the Yang di-Pertuan Besar of Negri Sembilan, Tuanku Abdul Rahman Tuanku Muhammad, who was installed as Malaysia’s first King on Sept 2, 1957. He died in office on April 1, 1960. All of us must know him as it is his portrait that is on all Malaysian ringgit notes.

The nation’s 11th Yang di-Pertuan Agong, Sultan Salahuddin Abdul Aziz Shah, also died in office. Sultan Salahuddin, who was then Sultan of Selangor, passed away in November 2001.

But it will be unprecedented if any King would step down midway, either on his own or by being removed by his fellow Rulers, as allowed under the Federal Constitution.

Under Articles 32 and 33, Part 1 of the Third Schedule, on the election of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong,

1. A Ruler is qualified to be elected King unless:

(a) he is a minor, or

(b) he has notified the Keeper of the Royal Seal that he does not desire to be elected; or

(c) the Conference of Rulers by secret ballot resolves that he is unsuitable by reason of infirmity of mind or body or any other cause to exercise the functions of Yang di-Pertuan Agong.

(2) A resolution under this section shall not be carried unless at least five members of the Conference have voted in favour of it.

2. The Conference of Rulers shall offer the office of Yang di-Pertuan Agong to the Ruler qualified for election whose State is first on the election list described in section 4 (of the Federal Constitution) and, if he does not accept the office, to the Ruler whose State is next on the list, and so until a Ruler accepts the office.

In matters with such seriousness and deep ramifications, the Rulers would want to decide on the future of the institution on their own. Political leaders would have no say, and it will be up to them if they wish to keep to the tradition of convention in the unique rotational system or begin something unprecedented.

The Federal Constitution is clear – the Rulers have full discretion – “the election or removal from the office of the Yang di-Pertuan Agong, or the election of the Timbalan Yang di-Pertuan Agong; The advising on any appointment.”

The events that will unfold over the coming weeks will be of national interest.

Gorillas in East Africa: ‘Off The Beat’ adventure of a lifetime!

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It had taken over a year of planning and some serious saving, too, for me to make the long journey to East Africa to spend the year-end holidays trekking in the jungles of Rwanda and the Uganda-Congo border. The point of my pursuit? To look for gorillas.

I could barely sleep on the morning of the trek – I was already wide awake at 4am, even though we were only expected to leave the lodge at 6am. The excitement that was building was already pumping adrenaline through my veins, with the prospective primal experience getting me giddy in those wee hours.

It’s a cliché, but it was certainly an adventure of a lifetime to simply be in the presence of the gorillas in the majestically mist-covered 160sq km volcano national park of Rwanda.

Not unlike all my previous jungle and sea journeys, my friends and I noticed that we were the only Asian trekkers at the park headquarters, which is where all trekkers congregate to begin their adventure into the wild.

We were assigned to the Amahoro – the name of the ape family, which simply means peace in Kinyarwanda, an official language of Rwanda and a dialect of the Rwanda-Rundi language.

The guides and porters assured us that it would be a peaceful climb, as the name suggested.

We were told it would be relaxing, comfortable and serene, and we would enjoy the walk together – after all, this family is led by a silverback named Ubumwe, which means “togetherness”.

Eager to just get on with the climb up the slopes of Mount Bisoke, where these gorillas would be found, I wasn’t in the mood to listen to the finer details.

Since we had informed the organisers a day earlier, that we preferred a “moderate” climb, I had assumed that they had heard us, expecting terrains like Bukit Apek or Bukit Kiara in Kuala Lumpur.

What had started as a pleasant walk through the village of farmers, with their bountiful supply of Irish potatoes, maize and cabbages on extremely fertile lava ground, soon turned into a very steep hike through a mud-covered forest.

No one told me that the homes of these gorillas were 1,700m above sea level (or was I not paying attention?), and despite having watched enough Tarzan and King Kong movies, I was still clueless about the nettles and other thorny plants, whose little pins pierced through my skin despite me wearing a long-sleeved shirt and gloves.

And although I wore proper hiking shoes, I lost count of the number of times I fell as the terrain was rough on the many patches of wet slopes.

“I don’t think I can do this once I reach 60 years old. It was the right decision to make this trip now,” I told my wife, who kept asking me if I needed to stop to catch my breath, since my “face has already turned pucat” – or pale. At such high elevation, the air was also noticeably thin, naturally.

I was later told that Malaysians in another group had a more accessible and easier path, as the gorillas they were meant to see live right at the edge of the park on lowland!

At first, I was reluctant to pay US$10 (RM42) for a porter – I am a Penangite, and that’s a lot of money! – whose job only seemed to be to carry my backpack containing just my cameras and a rain coat. Of course, I soon found out that the porter would come in handy as the person to grip my hands, help push me over tricky spots, and enable me to balance myself!

It turned out to be an almost three-hour strenuous hike to reach the gorillas, and each time my legs wobbled under me, they kept encouraging me to push on, cunningly refusing to answer my incessant question, “Is it near already ah?”

But soon, all my pains and panting disappeared when I suddenly heard a gorilla thumping its chest! A real King Kong moment!

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It is possible to get very close to the primates in Rwanda, but only when your ranger gives the all clear. Photo: Florence Teh

At this point, being the one in front, I had the audacity to turn around and instruct the rest to shut up, stop grumbling and remain silent, as we had finally reached the home of the Amahoro family!

The head of the family – the alpha male Ubumwe – was sound asleep. He was big. Real big. He is said to have 25 members, including black backs, juvenile gorillas, adult females, and young ones.

The juveniles were more playful, and obviously, no strangers to human beings. We were constantly reminded to keep our distance from these primates, as they are still wild animals and remain unpredictable.

The jungle surroundings were dark, and we were concerned that lighting was going to be an issue for our photos, since these are no flash zones. But my wish came true when a young one sidled up and touched me.

It happened in a flash, and before I could process the unexpected magical moment of being up and close, where I could feel the hairy ape rubbing against me, the moment was over, but not before leaving me stunned.

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At an airstrip in Kisoro, Uganda on the way to Bwindi National Park. Photo: Florence Teh

We took our positions on the uncomfortable ground and spent the next hour – the maximum allotted time – just admiring these beautiful creatures, listening to the grunts and growls of the bigger family members and the whimper of the young ones. And just like human beings, they can elicit loud farting sounds, too.

It was hard to restrain ourselves or temper our excitement as we kept snapping away with our cameras. We could do little but just soak in the incredible moment, absorbing every second and minute, which we will treasure for a lifetime.

After our time with the gorillas in Rwanda ended, we flew to the Uganda-Congo region to continue our search for gorillas at the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, situated along the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC) border, next to the Virunga National Park and on the edge of the Albertine Rift. Composed of 331sq km of both montane and lowland forests, it is accessible only by foot.

According to a 2012 census released by the Uganda Tourism and Antiquities Ministry, there are at least 400 gorillas from the 302 in 2006 at the park alone, and over 80 in Mgahiga Gorilla National Park, amounting to 480 mountain gorillas in Uganda and a world total of 880, divided between Uganda, Rwanda and Congo.

Apparently, 36 gorilla families live in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, but only 11 are habituated and accessible to visitors, according to a report.

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The Bwindi Impenetrable National Park, Uganda is a haven for the endangered mountain gorilla. Photo: The Star/Wong Chun Wai

Having “suffered” in Rwanda, I made sure I was grouped in the “easy” category, so the rangers were more sympathetic to my pleas (complaints?) and took us down an easy path – a short distance from the lodge we were staying at! We later joked that these were “hotel resident gorillas”.

Initially, we were cynical and dismissive when the lodge manager welcomed us upon check in – his claims of gorillas cruising the hotel grounds seeming far-fetched.

There were photographs as evidence, but because the manager said so in a rather nonchalant manner, we just laughed it off. But guess who had the last laugh? Clue: it wasn’t the gorillas.

The even ground, and the more flexible rangers, enabled us to take close shots of these gorillas by simply using our mobile phones.

When I enquired about how close I could get to these gorillas, the rangers merely encouraged me and assured me I would only need to stop my advance when they said so.

“Go ahead, don’t worry, get nearer, take all the pictures,” one ranger whispered to me, and of course, he would also remind me later that it was Christmas, and that “daddy” – as he kept addressing me – was a very good person. Translated: please give me a good tip. I got the drift.

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A gorilla in the Volcanoes National Park, Rwanda. Photo: The Star/Wong Chun Wai

Still, he was strict when the hour was up, as he gave me an uncompromising look and told me not to “stress the gorillas” anymore.

Scientist Dian Fossey, who was dramatised in the highly-acclaimed movie Gorillas In The Mist, and paid with her life for her crusade in protecting the vanishing African mountain gorillas, had certainly created a lifetime of awareness.

She was found brutally murdered at a remote camp in Rwanda in 1985, most likely by poachers. While she opposed tourism, she would probably have taken a more moderate stand today. Gorilla numbers have since grown, and not even one of these amazing animals has been shot for the last 30 years, with the community staying near these parks having benefited the most.

And the most beautiful part of this once-sorry story? Many of these porters used to be poachers.

For me, to be in the presence of gorillas has dramatically changed me, and that one short trip has sufficed to convince me that we all need to protect our wildlife and jungles, and the oceans, too.

We need to pick up from where Fossey, among many others, left off.

Tips For Malaysians Travelling To Rwanda And Uganda

In the whole world, one can only see mountain gorillas in Rwanda, Uganda and Congo.

Fly to Doha in Qatar, from Kuala Lumpur and take a connecting flight to Kigali, Rwanda. From Kigali, it’s a two-hour drive to a lodge near the Volcanoes National Park.

In Rwanda, these primates can be seen in the Volcanoes National Park. As of 2016, there were seven mountain gorilla groups habituated; 56 gorilla permits are granted to visitors to Rwanda every single day. Only eight people (per group)can trek the jungles to see these endangered primates.

Getting to the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in Uganda requires a drive across the border from Rwanda. In Uganda, take a 30 minute flight on a light aircraft from Kisoro airstrip to Kihihi for transfer to Bwindi.

Effective May 2017, the permit doubled from US$750 (RM3,150) to US$1,500 (RM6,300) per person in Rwanda. In Uganda, it costs US$600 (RM2,520) per person. Part of your contribution goes to conserving these gorillas.

Rwanda is rated as one of the safest countries on the continent, while Kigali is lauded as “Africa’s cleanest city”, which is a boost to its ecological campaign. The country’s 2008 ban on non-biodegradable plastic is often commended by environmentalists.

You can get close to the gorillas in Rwanda, but only if the ranger gives the all-clear. Photo: Florence Teh

Another eco programme is a nationwide endeavour to clean up public spaces every last Saturday of the month, very much in the spirit of our gotong-royong. It’s called Umuganda, which means “coming together to achieve a common purpose”.

It is far cry from the genocide that saw a million people killed, mostly Tutsi by the Hutu-led government in the Rwandan civil war of 1994.

A well-run memorial and museum are also a must-see for first-time visitors. There’s even a side exhibit which offers comparisons between the country’s history and similar government-executed operations in other countries against their own minorities.

In Uganda, visit Queen Elizabeth National Park, in southwest Uganda, where one can easily spot elephants, hippos, baboons, herds of Uganda kob and even tree-climbing lions. At the Kazinga Channel, large numbers of hippos, crocodiles and great flocks of birds, including pelicans and eagles, gather while chimpanzees inhabit the Kyambura Gorge.

Yes. Search online and compare prices. Better to sign up with a reputable agency/lodge, even if it costs a little more.