The writer standing among the stupas at Borobudur in Yogyakarta. — Photos: FLORENCE TEH
Despite the long-standing temptation, it took me ages to finally visit Yogyakarta, which is a crying shame because this Indonesian city is just a hop, skip and jump away from Kuala Lumpur.
Regarded as the centre of traditional art and cultural heritage, this is the home of the massive Borobudur Buddhist temple as well as the stunning Prambanan Hindu temple.
The more famous Borobudur is the most visited tourist site in Indonesia, drawing about 2.5 million visitors annually. That’s also the reason why the Indonesian government has considered restrictions as part of its conservation efforts to protect this sprawling complex.
The 9th century Buddhist sanctuary has been standing tall for thousands of years, but it’s struggling to cope with the daily thronging of tourists.
Damages inflicted include the destruction and decay to nearly half of the 2,000-odd stone steps from human overload.
Guards are now posted to stop over-excited visitors from ignoring no-climbing signs and curtailing their attempts to scramble on top of the stupas to pose for the ideal Instagram pictures.
Although designated as a Unesco World Cultural Heritage Site, it has suffered severe damage from the elements, volcanic ash fall and even attempts by terrorists to blow it up. Vandalism and unregulated visitors remain its main threat though.
Visitors to Borobudur are allowed to climb up the steps to where the stupas are, but the main stupa in the middle is off limits.
In 2010, Borobudur was covered in volcanic ash following the eruption of the nearby Mount Merapi, regarded as the most active volcano in Indonesia.
And before that, in 1985, nine bombs were detonated at the temple, badly damaging nine stupas (the dome shaped Buddhist shrine) on the upper rounded terraces.
Regarded as one of the world’s seven wonders, it has indeed lived up to its name as a special iconic place by continuing to survive and defy all odds.
Abandoned in the 14th century, presumably because of the decline of the Hindu kingdoms in Java in the face of the rise of Islam, the temple complex was eventually swallowed by the jungle.
But Borobudur was rediscovered by Sir Stamford Raffles after setting up his base in Singapore. He was earlier stationed in Penang. He was also commissioned by the British to look after Java as its governor.
Having read news reports about the authorities prohibiting visitors from entering and climbing up the complex, I decided it was time for me to visit this magnificent structure.
An Indonesian friend had visited the temple and was only allowed access to the grounds, so things weren’t looking too good for me.
There were earlier reports of a US$100 (RM450) additional charge for those harbouring hopes of making the climb.
Some of the stones at the temple are lighter-coloured because they are replacements of the originals that were either damaged or stolen throughout the centuries.
But lo and behold, when I visited Borobudur recently, I was allowed to make the ascent – and I only needed to fork out RM24 for an hour’s access! Divine intervention? I’d like to think so.
The entrance fee was 375,000 rupiah (RM113) for foreigners, which locals consider steep.
My guide shook his head and said he, too, was confused by the constant change of policies and decisions.
“These days, I dare not make any commitment when my guests ask if they are still allowed to enter the temple complex or about the price of entrance tickets,” he said.
But I wasn’t complaining. I had come to Yogyakarta to visit the temple with the resignation that my movements would be confined to the grounds and cursed myself for not having made the visit years ago.
Imagine my delight when I learned I had an hour’s access to the temple proper!
The majestic Prambaran temple complex.
In fact, it was very well organised with each group limited to a maximum of 15 people per session. There is no overlap, so each group has exclusive time, thus maintaining order and minimising impact on the place.
So, visitors can take better pictures without getting photobombed. Just be patient and you’ll likely get good pictures without anyone hovering in the back.
There’s no limit to the amount of time you can spend on the grounds but with the scorching sun, it will be a case of get-your-shots-and-go.
Unlike before, it’s also no longer possible to be at Borobudur at 3am to wait for the sunrise to capture those incredible photographs. Likewise sunset.
Now, the operating hours are from 6am – and the sunrise is early in Indonesia – to 5pm.
That was another stern reminder that I should have visited Borobudur 10 years ago, or even earlier!
Having finally visited it, I now understand why this is such a fascinating sight where construction took 75 years to complete. This majestic place has thousands of intricate carvings with a story behind each and every one of them.
There are 2,672 relief panels and 504 statues of Buddha, with the central dome surrounded by 72 statues.
Just imagine, the total structure comprises more than 1.6 million blocks of the volcanic rock andesite.
How these rocks were cut, placed, and joined is an engineering feat and mystery of the Sailendra Dynasty, which flourished in Java from about 750 to 850.
No trip to Yogyakarta is complete without a visit to the Prambanan ruins, located about 17km northeast of the city.
The temple compound is another Unesco World Heritage Site; the largest Hindu temple site in Indonesia and the second largest in South-East Asia after Angkor Wat.
The tall and pointed architecture of the Shiva temple, the main shrine, is an incredible sight to behold.
Surrounded by many other temples, I was also enchanted by the Sewu Buddhist temple ruins within the Prambanan archaeological park.
Prambaran is the largest Hindu temple site in Indonesia.
I can’t help but admire the Indonesians. They take great pride in these Hindu and Buddhist monuments.
They don’t attempt to downplay the incredible history and heritage of the Hindu kingdoms.
While almost the entire population living around these temple areas are Muslim, they have no issue selling replicas of stupas and Buddha heads.
I have travelled to over 60 countries and visited many incredible places including the Great Wall of China and the pyramids of Egypt.
Borobudur and Prambanan certainly have the wow factor, too. At least I no longer have to wonder about chalking off another wonder on my list.
